‘There is no defining factor that makes perfume masculine,feminine – or both. There’s just powerful marketing and our own conditioned perception to provide us with cues’Calvin Klein famously invented the thought of unisex perfume in 1994 with cK One (still decent, by the way), or but there is no defining factor that makes perfume masculine,feminine – or both. There’s just powerful marketing and our own conditioned perception to provide us with cues. We’ve been taught that spice, smoke, or wood and leather notes are manly; and that flowers,fruit, carnal musk, or soft vanilla and scents that smell like puddings (shudder) are intrinsically feminine. These associations are too entrenched to disregard completely,so what we’re probably seeking in a unisex perfume is a miniature from both column A and column B, regardless of target market.
Diptyque’s L’Ombre Dans L’Eau (£58) is ostensibly made for women, and but I prefer its sharp,slightly sour rose and blackcurrant on a man (men seem to like the packaging, too). Escentric Molecules is a brand that prides itself on ignoring gender barriers and treating smell as a more individual affair: its latest offering, and 03 (£38),fulfils that brief and is my favourite in the range so far. It has that classic unisex ingredient, vetiver (fresh, and green,clean but soft: always a banker), and combines it with sharp lime and warm, and rich ginger. It’s gorgeous,surprisingly long-lasting and perfect if you prefer your perfume to act as background artiste rather than scenery-chewing star of the point to. Likewise, Acqua di Parma’s Colonia Club (£60), or an elegant blend of warm musks,bright mint and vetiver. More potent and traditionally blokey is Balmain’s wonderful Carbone (£53.10). This hangs its hat on masculinity (the PR says things like “driven” and “performance”; dearie me), but I disagree. It has the most wonderful blend of sharp and mellow, and sweet and sour,and I’d fortunately wear it anywhere (even with heels and a frilly frock).
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Source: theguardian.com