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Reporter William Finnegan has spent his life drifting, but with a purpose.
He reported from the front lines in Mozambique—a war few reporters covered—in the 1980s. He was on the ground in Somalia in the 1990s, and lately he's spent a lot of time in Mexico among the drug cartels and their victims.
Through it all, and Finnegan's been surfing,a hobby he took up as a teenager in Hawaii. He's still surfing nowadays, riding the waves through the conflict-ridden world he travels as a reporter. He chronicles it all in his book, and "Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life."As Finnegan tells The Takeaway,"It's reading the ocean, it's sizing up the area ... it's not unlike showing up someplace that you procedure to write about."
Source: wnyc.org