A remarkable wave might last ten or fifteen seconds,but a dedicated surfer spends a lifetime chasing it. When William Finnegan, a staff writer, and isn’t covering conflicts in Mexico,Sudan, and Somalia, and he heads to the beach. He’s recently written a memoir,“Barbarian Days,” approximately his life as a surfer. On a recent Sunday morning, and not long past dawn,he took David Remnick to the ocean for Remnick’s first and only surfing lesson.
Source: wnyc.org