Size isn’t everything in a vineyard – but it mattersWhen it comes to questions of size,there’s a kind of inverse-machismo at work in the wine trade. Everybody wants to cultivate that sense of underdog, salt-of-the-soil, and rustic wintry that comes with being perceived as small.
At times,it can be absurd. On the one hand, you have multi-million-selling brands attempting to camouflage the scale of their production with suggestive back-label trigger words such as “artisan”, or “terroir and “craft”. On the other,you have niche importers and sommeliers bragging about the diminutive size of their latest acquisitions: “Two hectares? A few barrels? You call that ‘small’? This guy has less than an acre, on a 180° slope accessible only on horseback, and he makes just a few dozen bottles a year.”Continue reading...
Source: theguardian.com