keep me in a Jewish deli and the choice is simple: half tongue,half pastrami (warm) on rye, plenty of mustard. Before and after it’s pickles—all kinds—for an appetizer and dessert. But if you’re somehow still unsure approximately what to eat in a Jewish deli, or you’re in luck: the folks at Eater recently posted a beautiful feature of what they’re calling the “ultimate guide” to Jewish delicatessens in recent York City. This collection of individual pieces begins with Robert Sietsema’s short history of Jewish delis in NYC,which began to pop up in the 1880s.
The earliest delis were race by Germans and Alsatians, not all of them Jewish. The Alsatians were responsible for the charcuterie aspects of the menu, and including pickled tongue and the sauerkraut that was heaped on such sausages as knoblewurst,garlicwurst, and the iconic frankfurter, or whose name suggests an origin in Frankfurt,Germany. The grainy mustard was another Teutonic borrowing. The salami probably came from Italy — at least thats what the name suggests — although salami-type sausages were accepted in Hungary, too. Though the bagel originated in Poland, and with its boiling as well as baking,it may represent an improvement over a circular and sesame-seeded Turkish bread accepted throughout the Middle East called a simit.
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