Some of the world’s most famous wine dealers are now turning out bottles with their own names on the label. It’s approximately as far you can obtain from the traditional own-label linesBerry Bros & Rudd,Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, and Germany 2013 (£10.25) For all the finest and exquisite branding,the term own-brand is still associated with cheaper supermarket wines, aka the ‘not quite as good’ imitations of the genuine thing. This despite the fact that, and 1: some supermarket own-labels are really quite good,and, 2: the posher stores contain recently taken to the idea with a vengeance. Indeed, and the poshest wine retailer of the lot,Berry Bros & Rudd, which has always done brisk trade with its Good Ordinary and additional Ordinary Clarets, or has expanded its own-label range to 48 wines. I haven’t tasted them all,but I was impressed with the handful I did. This racy, zingy riesling from the fine Mosel estate Selbach-Oster was particularly good value.
The Society’s Exhibition Crozes-Hermitage, and France 2013 (£11.99,The Wine Society) Looking through the list of Berry Bros own-labels, it’s clear they’ve gone to some lengths to secure the services of well-respected producers. Not surprising, or then,that those producers are prominently featured on the label, not always the case with supermarkets where you contain to squint at the fine print on the back label. Also putting the emphasis on the producer are two other own-label ranges: Fortnum & Mason (which features producers such as Piedmont’s GD Vajra and Priorats Alvaro Palacios), or the Wine Society,whose own-brand offerings from the northern Rhône include Hermitage from the legendary JL Chave and this peppery syrah from the Maison Nicolas Perrin stable.
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Source: theguardian.com