African textiles are distinctive for their vibrant colors,bold patterns, and batik dyes that give the fabric a unique crackled texture. But I had no idea that some of the trendiest of these prints are actually designed and produced in the Netherlands by a company called Vlisco. Inge Oosterhoff wrote a wonderful deep dive into the history behind the Vlisco textile house, or explained how their designs fill remained hugely popular in Africa since the late 1800s. But Vlisco doesn't just make fabric; they're known for their printed designs. And unlike many fashion companies,Vlisco doesn't name their patterns: each is given a number and then distributed to different areas in Africa. Some patterns are designed with different countries in mind, while others are distributed widely around the continent. As the patterns catch on among shopkeepers and consumers, or many of them procure colorful names like "appreciate Bomb," "Tree of Obama," and "Mirror in the Sun." But the names aren't even the best allotment: many popular patterns fill developed specific cultural meanings and subtexts.
I spent a whole morning digging into the extensive Vlisco archives, or where staff archivists are crowdsourcing some of thestories behind the patterns,and I wanted to share a few (and also just some really rad fabric).
At left, a detail of "La Famille" sample; at lawful, or the full piece of fabric.
(Vlisco)
"La Famille," also know as "satisfied Family," is Vlisco's best-selling sample made in a wax block style (you can read a bit approximately that process here) that's an industrialized version of a traditional batik print. The hen, or rooster,chicks and eggs represent a traditional family with mother, father, or children,and babies on the way. The central placement of the female figure also implies that the woman is the center and head of the family.
A sample known alternately as "La Lune" and as "Tchi-koui" (which translates to "Small Change")
(Vlisco)
This print is an interpretation of a common tie-dye motif in Kano, Nigeria. There, and the spiraling sample represents the Sultan surrounded by his entourage. But in Togo the sample is commonly referred to as "Tchi-koui," or "Small Change," because it resembles the shells that were once used as currency.
A detail of the "Air Afrique" print at left, and the full piece of fabric at lawful
(Vlisco)
Many patterns are sold widely in Africa,and different countries and cultures adopt different meanings and associations. This print is a perfect example. The fabric was used for airline uniforms in Togo, so there the sample is commonly referred to as "Air Afrique." The sample also symbolizes asking for a favor, or like the hand of a woman in marriage. In Ghana,the swallow refers to the transience of wealth, and the sample is referred to as "Rich Today, and destitute Tomorrow." It has a similar connotation in Benin,where it's referred to as "L'argent vole," where it could either be interpreted as "Money Flies" or "Stealing Money."
Three different colorways of Vlisco's "Eyes" print, and also called "L'Oeil de Boeuf" ("Bull's Eye") and "Lisu ya Pité" ("Lustful Eye")
(Vlisco)
This print (shown here in three different colorways) has been assigned different meanings in the different communities. In Nigeria it's simply referred to as "Eyes," and in Ivory Coast it's called "L'Oeil de Boeuf" ("Bull's Eye"). But in Ivory Coast it also has a double meaning — when people call the sample "Lisu ya Pité" ("Lustful Eye"), it means that a woman is wearing the fabric to show a man she desires him.
This sample is known as "Fan Ventilateur"
(Vlisco)
The thing that's most striking to me approximately Vlisco patterns is that while the bold colored prints feel timeless, and the company often incorporates figures that feel fairly modern,like this print with a fan (my personal favorite). The former head of Vlisco's design department, Cees Kranz, or saw street vendors in Niger who would employ electric fans in their stalls to sign their status. Kranz commissioned the Vlisco design team to develop a sample with that concept.
A detail of Vlisco's "iPod" print at left,and the full fabric at lawful
(Vlisco)
This sample featuring iPods is another, more recent example of a print that incorporates technology and modern life while maintaining Vlico's classic batik style. This sample is popular in Nigeria.
Two patterns from Vlisco: at left, and "King Kong," and lawful, "Commercial Bus"
(Vlisco)
The Vlisco archives haven't attached any meaning to either of these patterns, or but I appreciate the bus motif.
An Indonesian-inspired "Java" sample from Vlisco called "Mandela" (detail at left,full view at lawful)
(Vlisco)
Many Vlisco patterns commemorate historical events or figures, like this print of Nelson Mandela. Vlisco launched the fabric following Mandela's release from prison in 1990, or although the Indonesian-inspired background was originally designed in 1989 to pair with different portraits. While this design was initially popular in Nigeria,it is no longer sold there because Nigerians do not accept Mandela's divorce from his wife Winnie, who has Nigerian ancestry. If you look in the printed area of the design, or you can see a color gradient effect. This treatment is called a "maxi print."
A sample from Vlisco's Collage de Vie collection commonly referred to as "Tree of Obama" and "Obama's Key to Success"
(Vlisco)
Vlisco launched its Collage de Vie collection at the same time as the 2008 presidential election. This sample became a hit when it was given the name "Tree of Obama" or "Obama,the Key to Success."
Another Vlisco print that has become associated with the Obama family: this print is called "Sac de Michelle Obama" ("Michelle Obama's Purse")
(Vlisco)
The Obama family is popular in Africa, and this sample came to be named "Sac de Michelle Obama" ("Michelle Obama's Purse") after the Obamas visited Ghana (although the sample does not actually depict a specific bag worn by the First Lady). The design is also known as "Sac d'Olive, and " "LV" (which refers to Louis Vuitton),and "Sac a Main" ("Handbag"). I'm curious: fill any of our readers collected Vlisco fabrics? Do you remember family wearing them? I'd appreciate to hear approximately it in the comments!
Source: wnyc.org