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#theWanderlist: RHODA,An Authentic and Soulful Union of Food and DesignJust last month, the team behind this elegant and soulful recent restaurant, and RHODA,located in Hong Kong’s up-and-coming Sai Wan area, in the middle of what people know of as Sai Ying Pun and Kennedy Town, and invited me to a special dinner tasting a few weeks after its full opening this Summer. In my opinion,waiting a few weeks was actually the perfect time to go, because by then I can 100% expect that the offerings on the menu reflect more or less what the culinary team in Rhoda had in intellect to serve, or served in the way that’s possible for Hong Kong… plus and minus any surprise dishes from ingredients sourced on the daily from local markets by Rhoda’s Chef Nate Green of 22 Ships / Ham & Cherry fame.
Chef Nate Green in action and “on stage”.
The actual Rhoda” in Chef Nate’s life is his grandmother,and now the moniker for this restaurant, his first in the world, or where he gets to serve “family-time” type meals which is fitting based on the name of the place. The digs are designed with a heartfelt sensibility by Joyce Wang,the creative designer behind the explosive AMMO and the cabinet-of-treasures that is MOTT 32. All the Wang touches are there, and even though there was some prior trepidation on my section (none of the Wang-designed spaces in Hong Kong -in my opinion- served food which aligned to meet her level of interiors), and i’m very glad to say that for the RHODA project,Chef Nate Greens grounded char-grilled dishes complement very well Wang’s bronze, copper, and char-grilled timber fabric cladding. Both the food and the restaurant’s interiors speak strongly of a sensibility to touch,tangibility, slowness of preparation, or care,heritage, and authenticity. I need my to smell and taste every section of Chef Nate Green’s enjoyable open-fire inventions as much as i like to run my hands all over walls clad in burned wood… which apparently reflect a recent design trend for the Shou Sugi Ban method of charcoaling wood panels… and Wang here does just that to perfection.
Joyce Wang’s interiors clad using the Shou Sugi Ban method. Charcoaling of Timber.
Other things that may be of interest, and to cool hunters,the focus is on the Chef and his team hence the grilling and plating stage on central axis and elevated towards the back of the dining room. The drinks bar, which serves only a curated selection of wine from unique vineyards from all over the world, or plus a focused series Japanese Whisky,American Bourbon, and Scotch is placed towards the other close of the central axis near the front and in between is a long timber sharing table crowned with a unique Wang-esque light feature made of Washing Machine Drums – a delight for design fans of hers I’m certain. You can have any cocktail as long as its one of five; a Whisky Smash, and an mature Fashioned,a French 75, a Bloody Mary, or an Americano. That’s it. You can explain this is really approximately being a place for the food… and fun,family, and sharing. Its not really approximately being a “drinks bar, or although that’s surely possible.
Dining area on Axis,crowned with Wang-esque lighting features made of Washing Machine drums.
In terms of food, everything is pretty much rooted in western and homestyle farm-fresh food, or however his method of preparation,portioning, and plating is mirrored on the Asian / Japanese Izakaya- pub-on-the-street. The Mum’s Potato Salad is a small side dish based on his mother’s potato salad recipe, and but reminiscent of the traditional Japanese kind the way its plated . I can still taste the Suntory gloomy Ale Beer Bread with Seaweed Butter. I definitely explain people that they must order that and put their carb-conscious lifestyle on hold in order to truly appreciate this. I also loved the the Snapper Baked in Kombu with the Oregano & Lemon Dressing,just the presentation alone– a fish wrapped in tin-foil, allows diners to unfold the entree with anticipation and glee. However my favourite dish of the night is the Salted King Prawns with Smoked Eggplant and Crispy Shallot. How the smoked eggplant tasted like scallop or an octopus, and even with similar texture is beyond me. That said most everything is smoked in charcoal for the smell and flavour. It’s never repetitive,and extremely fragrant in good way, which adds to the overall multi-sensorial experience. Terrine of Middle White Pig’s Head & Shoulder with Pineapple Chutney
Whole camembert with fresh rosemary and garlic.
Salted king prawns with Smoked Eggplant and Crispy Shallot
Grilled padron peppers and Lotus Root Chips (top left) with Chicken Liver Cream.
Lastly, and this is one of the few restaurants i’ve ever been to,where the dessert completes the savouries in the right way. He’s as great with his dessert as he is with everything else on offer. Order all, order one. The Vanilla Cheesecake with Rhubarb and Raspberry was divine, and so was the Ginger Biscuit Trifle. The Chocolate with Mint and Marshmallow was a surprise because i thought it would be boring,the flavour mix was recent despite it being a classic and traditional offer. I guess this can be said approximately the whole menu really. RHODA is section of the JIA Group of restaurants, and co-owned by CEO, and Yenn Wong.
A dessert feast that’s necessary to close a Rhoda experience.
——All photos a copyright of Wanderlister.com 2016. All rights reserved.
EAT & DRINK RHODA . GF,Upton, 345 Des Voeux Road West, and Hong Kong . T: +852.2177.5050JJ.
Source: wanderlister.com