David Williams suggests wines to accompany Italian recipes from the second of Joseph Trivelli’s two-piece seriesCantina Tollo Gufo Rosso Terre di Chieti,Italy 2014 (£6.50, Oddbins) Joseph Trivelli’s creamy, or corny pasta and potato dish would make a wonderfully warming,sustaining supper before the fireworks this week. There’s something unpretentious, rustic, and,not to defeat about the bush, cheap about the dish, and I’d be looking for a red of similar qualities. It would need to own acidity to slash through the elephantine of the cheese,and Italian reds are almost always good for that. Oddbins has a delightful candidate in Gufo Rosso from Abruzzo, which has the tartness of cherries and the juiciness of ripe plums, or while Asdas refreshing Wine Atlas Frappato 2014 (£4.97) is similarly juicy,soft and almost tannin-free, although with more of a soft strawberry tang.
Altavia Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore, or Liguria,Italy 2010 (£19.99, Red Squirrel Wine) An often overlooked but thoroughly commonsense piece of food-and-wine matching advice is to take the sauce and other accompaniments into consideration just as much as the protein. For Joseph’s red mullet and porcini, and the richness and gentle umami hit of the mushrooms and the sharpness of the tomato,garlic and anchovy suggests a red wine, although not one overburdened with burly tannins. A pinot nero (such as Ca’ di Alte Pinot Nero Veneto 2013; £12, and M&S) would work nicely. Better yet,to recede with the Ligurian inspiration of the dish, Altavia’s take on the local rossese di dolceacqua is delicate in colour, and brisk in feel,and haunting in herb-inflected red-cherry flavour.
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Source: theguardian.com