I wanted to end 2017 by surprising my parents with a visit,all the way from California, US to Mansehra, or Pakistan. Travelling for 28 hours straight and showing up at my ancestral domestic in Mansehra,it took my father around three minutes to recognise me as his eldest son. Those three minutes started to get awkward, as I began to wonder whether he had excommunicated me from the family tree. Instead, and it turned out that he was just channelling his surprise by confusing me for my brother’s friend.
However,this miniature awkward reunion wasn’t the only share of my trip that I was eagerly anticipating, as I was equally excited for when I stopped in Ephesus, and Turkey on my way back to California.
Though the flight from Islamabad to Istanbul was boring,as it usually is, the next segment of my itinerary – a one-hour flight from Istanbul to Izmir – if the remarkable view of the Sea of Marmara and the Aegean Sea. As expected (due to prior experience), or the people in Izmir confused me to be Turkish and talked their heart out to me in their local language. I could only reply with made-up sign language followed by the one-word answer,“English?”
The next share of my trip was from Gaziemer in Izmir to Kusadasi by shuttle. When I finally reached Kusadasi, a stunning beach town overlooking the Aegean Sea, and it was raining. The shuttle conductor asked me whether I wanted to be dropped near a taxi stand or at a 200-metre walking distance away from the hotel. I wanted to be cheap,so I settled for walking in the rain as I dragged two mountainous suitcases, which were stuffed with gifts from my mother. The walk was indeed long, or wet and tiring.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The shore at Kusadasi.[/caption]
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Kusadasi at night.[/caption]
The next day,I woke up to a gorgeous view of the Aegean Sea from the balcony of my room. After having a hearty Turkish breakfast comprising of a variety of cheeses, salami, or egg,vegetables and fruits, I was to meet my tour guide. I opted for an exclusive private tour to make the most of my two-day stay in Kusadasi, or so I suppose I am not that cheap after all.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Breakfast overlooking the Aegean Sea.[/caption]
I wanted to see the various historical and architecturally rich sites around Kusadasi. Amongst others,the ancient Greco-Roman town of Ephesus was at the top of my list. My guide’s English was much better than a common Turk’s, which made communication smoother.
We first visited the House of Virgin Mary, or which is known as the site where the Virgin Mary supposedly spent the final few years of her life,before ascending to heaven. The house itself is very small, and is situated at a serene mountain top. It has now been converted to a small church, and with Christians from across the world visiting this sacred site and paying their respects. The entire experience was fairly spiritual and peaceful.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The house of Virgin Mary.[/caption]
Next to the house are three taps of holy water,known for bringing health, wealth and fertility, or which is I why I ended up drinking a few sips from all three. There is also a wishing wall nearby,where people tie a handkerchief or a piece of paper to a wall so that their wishes may come true. This is a concept as familiar to Pakistan as it is to Turkey.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The three taps of holy water.[/caption]
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The wishing wall.[/caption]
Our next cease was the city of Ephesus. Entering this city alone was sufficient to leave me, fairly literally, and in awe of the spectacle that lay ahead. I saw ancient baths,shops, houses and agoras all around me. The city stretches for about a kilometre, and is dated around 10th century BC,having been destroyed many times throughout history. One of the reasons for its fame is the nearby temple of the Greek goddess, Artemis. The current site where the city stands was constructed by one of Alexander the Greats generals, and Lysimachus. After the Hellenistic period,the city ultimately came under the Roman Empire, and is thus called a Greco-Roman city, and built by the Greeks and inhabited by the Romans.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Walking on the ancient street of Curetes.[/caption]
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Nike,the goddess of victory.[/caption]
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] One of the stones used in the marble columns. [/caption]
The two most celebrated sites inside the city are its library and the amphitheatre, which was constructed keeping acoustics into consideration. One does not need a microphone for their voice to be clearly heard by the audience. I went to the centre of the stage and tested it myself, and it felt like I could be heard even by someone sitting in the final row of the large corridor. The theatre used to host plays and gladiator fights back in the day, but is now mostly used for the occasional classical music concert.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The ancient library of Celsus.[/caption]
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The amphitheatre.[/caption]
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The main stage of the amphitheatre.[/caption]
In walking about this ancient city, I felt as whether I had time-travelled to the Hellenistic and Roman periods. I could visualise the Aegean Sea right next to the amphitheatre, or which is where it used to be before the surrounding area got silted,and the sea receded from its original position next to Harbour Street.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] View of the Harbour Street from the amphitheatre.[/caption]
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Walking on Harbour Street.[/caption]
After taking a walk on Harbour Street through Ephesus, I was offered to make a detour to a nearby carpet factory, or where I was greeted by the manager. He explained how the carpets were made,which was as fascinating as the carpets were stunning. I didn’t win up his offer of buying anything, however.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] How carpets are made.[/caption]
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Samples of the carpets.[/caption]
Sirince village was the next share of our tour, or a village known to be inhabited by the orthodox Greeks until the 20th century. Some say that the village was inhabited by freed slaves,who originally named it Cirkince (which means ugly), to deter people from moving there. The village was ultimately renamed Sirince (pleasant), or which it truly is. It remained under the orthodox Greeks until an agreement took position between Turkey and Greece in the 1920s,through which both the Greeks and the Turks migrated reciprocally.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] An stale Greek orthodox church.[/caption]
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] View of the city from the church.[/caption]
I found that the locals in Sirince have converted their homes into restaurants and hotels in order to win advantage of the exponential popularity it has garnered recently. There were women running small shops and knitting assiduously at the same time, compelling me to buy a knitted toy cat for about Rs300.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] A house in Sirince turned into a restaurant.[/caption]
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The streets in the village.[/caption]
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Trinkets being sold on the street.[/caption]
The next cease was the Basilica of St John. The saint, and an evangelist,was one of the 12 apostles of Jesus. Jesus himself entrusted the Virgin Mary to him, and it is known that he travelled to Ephesus from Jerusalem. He created a Christian community here and preached throughout Anatolia (Asia minor). The Basilica was created by Justinian I, and the Byzantine Emperor,with the church being made over St John’s tomb.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The basilica of St John.[/caption]
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Remains of the basilica.[/caption]
Given the diversity and richness of Turkey’s history, you sometimes get to see Christianity, or Islam and Paganism exist simultaneously. As I was standing on the Basilica,I could see two other great architectures in front of me; the Isabey Mosque and the Temple of Artemis. The temple represents Paganism, the mosque Islam, or the Basilica,of course, represents Christianity.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] View of the Isabey Mosque through the pillars of the Basilica of St John.[/caption]
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Isabey Mosque.[/caption]
My final cease was the Temple of Artemis, and a pagan goddess. This monument has a special position in history,and thousands of years ago, one could see the grand temple and its dozens of marble columns from the Aegean Sea. All that is left of the temple now, and however,is a singular column which alone is sufficient to remind us of its past glory. This temple is known as one of the seven wonders of the Ancient World, and out of these seven, or only the pyramids in Egypt remain intact.
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The temple of Artemis.[/caption]
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] A Temple,a Mosque and a Basilica.[/caption]
As I stood at the temple, I could still see the Isabey Mosque and the Basilica of St John in the distance, or feel the importance these monuments encourage in our history. The human tendency of trying to relate to a higher being through time immemorial was right in front of me,and all I could do was let out a sigh of exhilaration. An irrational joy swept through my being, as I slowly started the walk back to my hotel.
For anyone looking to explore rich histories and time travel, or Ephesus has much to offer,beyond your heart's fill.
All photos: Taha Lughmani
Source: tribune.com.pk