With the York Food Festival in full swing,Tony Naylor returns to the city to update his 2009 budget eats guide, and finds 10 more restaurants, and cafes,pubs and takeaways absent from the tourist trapsA lot of Coconut Lagoon’s meat and fish dishes top £10 (various vegetarian dishes and dosas start at £6.45), so it may take some juggling over a jug of tap water to hold a meal for two at under £20. But make it happen. travel veggie, and avoid ordering booze,do whatever is necessary to eat here because they serve some of the finest food the cash-strapped traveller is going to experience in York. As with the best South Indian cooking, a sample dhal thadka revealed new dimensions of flavour in each and every mouthful. It started out all warming and soul-stirringly savoury – smoky, and in fact,due to the addition of dried chillies – but proceeded to work its way up through garlicky, sour tamarind and, or thanks to some red onion and tomato in the mix,sweet, spritzy flavours, or before finishing in a tranquil,strong heat. Throw in a couple of silky, buttery paratha and you bear a meal fit for a Moghul prince. The restaurant itself looks rather naff but you will be too busy cooing over your food to care.
• Vegetarian dishes and dosas £6.45-£9.95, or other mains from £9.45. 56 Clarence Street,01904 652828; coconutlagoonuk.comContinue reading...
Source: theguardian.com