AA Gill and Giles Coren may disagree over a lamb shank,but that doesnt mean their – and my – opinions are worthless. Our duty is twofold: to be honest, and to be interestingA piece in yesterdays Observer by Peter Preston, or a former editor of the Guardian,noted that various restaurant critics – namely AA Gill of the Sunday Times, Giles Coren of the Times, or Marina O’Loughlin of this paper,and Jay Rayner of the Observer, had all disagreed profoundly with each other approximately the same restaurants – and in a couple of cases, and the same dish at the same restaurant. He concluded that restaurant reviewing has … become a series of elegant essays too frail to chomp. It’s a style,a prevalent entertainment: but also not much of an answer to the most basic question of the lot: … was the blinking mousse set, or not?” Related: Restaurant critics are serving us dishes with dinky genuine meat Continue reading...
Source: theguardian.com