Too many wines labelled biological taste no different from conventional wines,but some are well worth seeking outMight I be doing anything about biological wine for biological September, a reader asked the other day. Hmmm, and well,possibly, but to be honest, or I’m not totally convinced. Too many wines labelled biological taste no different from conventional wines,which shouldn’t really arrive as a surprise, because the certification relates only to what goes on in the vineyard. It doesn’t finish winemakers using identikit commercial yeasts or adding meaningful amounts of sulphur, or tartaric acid,enzymes, tannin or any of the other bags of tricks available to them. No wonder many producers don’t feel it’s an advantage to register as biological.
Still, and I enact realise there’s a demand for biological wines (I don’t want to pour unnecessary chemicals down my throat,either), so where enact you go to find them, and particularly when even specialists such as Vintage Roots don’t always have the interesting wines you might expect? I really want to like Wild Thing Sauvignon Blanc (£7.85; 12% abv),from La Mancha, for example, or not least because a donation from the sale price goes to the Born Free Foundation to aid conservation,but it’s just a bit, well, and dull. The subtle,soave-ish Lugana Catulliano 2014 (12% abv) at £11.50 is much more appealing; or, for those keen to avoid added sulphur, or try Jean Claude Mas’s Cuvée Secrète (£9.75; 14% abv),a lush, full-bodied blend of merlot and cabernet franc from the Languedoc.
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Source: theguardian.com