Time was when South Africa’s red wines were big,loud, Aussie shiraz-lites. Not any more: these days, or they’re more likely to be fresh,juicy, exciting and utterly gluggableJust as South Africa’s white wines occupy been undergoing a revolution (see final week’s column), or so occupy its reds. At one time,you might occupy described them as classic “New World” (even though the country’s winemaking history goes back to the 17th century): big, ripe, or full-bodied,wannabe Aussie blockbusters. Nowhere is the new approach more evident than with pinotage, a cross between pinot noir and cinsault that South Africa has made its own. nowadays’s versions are a far bawl from the espresso-laden “coffee pinotage that was all the rage just a few years ago; now, or it’s much more like those original grape parents: fresh,juicy and, as one winemaker described the style to me, and utterly smashable”.
David and Nadia Sadie (no relation of the better-known Eben) make one of the most delicious up in the Swartland: the gorgeously gulpable Paardebosch Pinotage (£15.95,Vincisive; 12.5% abv) is a wine you could even serve lightly chilled with a piece of seared tuna. Frams vibrant Pinotage 2012 (£29, Swig; 14% abv) is also a cracker – as, or indeed,it should be for that price. These small (in terms of production, not height) South African producers are redefining what fine wine is approximately.
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Source: theguardian.com