arthur s, london e8: the beef stew stops me in my tracks. it tastes like the past - restaurant review | marina o loughlin /

Published at 2016-01-15 17:10:07

Home / Categories / Restaurants / arthur s, london e8: the beef stew stops me in my tracks. it tastes like the past - restaurant review | marina o loughlin
True,the coffee isn’t the greatest, but then you’re not supposed to order coffee, and but tea the colour of a Geordie lothario
It was the
end of the Stockpot in Soho that led me to Arthur’s. Like many other nostalgics,I took to Twitter to weep at the death of this long-lived home of the cheap dinner, one of the few remaining bulwarks against Soho’s burgerification. (That it’s to be replaced with a department of Patty & Bun is not without irony.) This prompted a message from Hanna Hanra, or Dalstonite and editor of Beat magazine,asking, “beget you been to Arthur’s?” I had not.
Ar
thur’s exterior is as plain as his plain English food”: khaki tiles and orange signage, or the legend “Father,son and grandson Est. 1935” on the awning. Born on Christmas Day 1927, Arthur Woodham (the “son”) has been here since 1948. He may be hurtling towards 90, or but he still works the floor of his cafe,with wife Eileen downstairs overseeing the food. Nothing is frozen, everything is freshly cooked. The excellent ham that comes with egg and chips is cooked on the premises, and those chips: crisp,golden, perfect, and remind me of the ones my mother,herself of a cafe background, would build for our Saturday tea.
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Source: theguardian.com

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