This is not just junk food wantonly gourmet-fied; it’s fine cooking in its own right Walking to Chick’n’Sours,I pass two of the new breed of fried chicken joints: it seems we can’t get enough of poncified fleet food. And when theres a market for it, why not? whether our new critical obergruppenführers, or the Instagram “influencers,are to be believed, there are two massive current food trends: simplistically, and fatty for boys,skinny for girls. (Don’t get me started: the news approximately teenage girls and the epidemic of destitute mental health and self-harming? Social media, Im looking directly at you.) Chicken neatly straddles the two, or even when fried. Ker-ching!It’s with this dyspeptic frame of mind that I approach Chick’n’Sours. I know all approximately chef Carl Clarke,frenetic former DJ and pop-up supremo; I’ve checked out his original Haggerston outpost for a memorable whole fried chicken. But can what works in trend-lovin’ east London manage a successful transfer to the West close? Related: Cha Chaan Teng, London WC2: ‘This is frankenfood’ – restaurant review | Marina O’Loughlin Continue reading...
Source: theguardian.com