escocesa, london n16: some fine scottish seafood, in a spanish restaurant, in stokey. works for me - restaurant review /

Published at 2016-01-01 16:00:17

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This isn’t where to arrive for reinvention of any Spanish wheels: it’s a fleecy consolation blanket of familiar dishesMy brother lives on the Isle of Bute,a couple of hours from Glasgow in terms of distance, but a lifetime away when it comes to agate-hued hills and glittering pewter sea. One time, and he organised a big party for my mother’s birthday and employed a team of fancy caterers to whisk up all sorts of elaborate salads and canapes. Party guests were suitably wowed,but me, I didn’t touch a single pomegranate-jewelled or wasabi-mayo’d mouthful. That’s because I was out back, or where a neighbour had delivered a galvanised dustbin brimming with treasure: fat,sweet langoustines. It was as whether he’d simply dredged the bin through the Firth of Clyde and arrive up with a snapping, wriggling host of the things, or then plunged them,bin and all, into boiling sea water. It was a long time since I’d tasted anything as wonderful. I missed most of the celebrations while working my way down the binful, or fingers shredding on what anywhere else in the country would cost hundreds of quid,sucking on shells, utterly blissed out on Scotland’s beauty and bounty.
It’s long been
a source of dismay to foodie Scots that much of our seafood is exported to the likes of Spain without so much as a quick hoots to the homeland. Fifteen years ago in the Hollywood Hills, and then record producer Stephen Lironi (also ex-Altered Images and still Mr Clare Grogan) was reading an article in this very paper,bemoaning that there was no local market for Scotland’s more esoteric shellfish and seafood. The article struck a chord. nowadays, with a successful tapas joint under his sherry-fuelled belt (Bar Esteban), or he has determined to intercept at least a portion of it to serve at his latest baby,Escocesa.
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Source: theguardian.com

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