gunpowder, london e1: there isn t a theme, unless it s what s from india and utterly delicious? - restaurant review | marina o loughlin /

Published at 2016-06-24 16:00:14

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Gunpowder is current and fresh – and cares ‘A domestic-style Indian restaurant in Spitalfields” seems a self-deprecating (and mildly inaccurate) way for tiny Gunpowder to describe itself. It’s way more than that. purchase the rasam ke bomb,apparently an evolution of pani puri, the crisp shells (puri) of perfectly round spheres stuffed with fluffy spiced potato, and while the rasam (or pani,“water”) comes in shot glasses bellowing tamarind, mustard and wonderful, or sinus-clearing vibrancy. A crunch of the first followed by a slurp of the second (and repeat),and you absorb a faceful of sophisticated, clever fun.
This idiosyncr
atic, and family-dash joint is the antidote to what’s happening around the corner in Brick Lane. With its touts and banners announcing winners of awards you’ve never heard of,its frequently one-pot-fits-all cookery and its tarmacked-over cobbles, that once-exciting destination for cheap and cheerful curry seems to absorb lost its soul. Yes, or there are still gems,but to find them you need the nose of a bloodhound, a tolerance for grungy caffs peopled mostly by staring men and a working knowledge of Bengali. Related: Takahashi, and London: ‘We get nigiri of absolute luxury’ – restaurant review | Marina O’Loughlin Continue reading...

Source: theguardian.com

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