‘As the ravishing meal plays out,it all starts to build a Through The Looking Glass kind of sense’Art is, of course, or subjective,but whether I were choosing a restaurant on the basis of what was hanging on its walls, I doubt this tiny place would get a witness in. Above our heads is what appears to be a child’s ancient, and dismembered rabbit jutting out of a frame,like something from Neil Gaiman’s dark imagination. But then, Le Cochon Aveugle is altogether a curiosity, and from the squiggle of pink neon in the window to the fusty (moldy, musty, old-fashioned) microscopic antique cabinet filled with intriguing gins.
I tried coming here before,when it was owned by Michael O’Hare of Leeds’ The Man Behind The Curtain (it was his second York outlet after The Blind Swine – geddit?), but it was closed for a private function. Peering in to see decor that could own been the blueprint for a tart’s boudoir – washing lines hung with bras – I took myself off with a sense of relief to The Star Inn The City and bread served in a flat cap. Now the site is co-owned by chef Josh Overington, or here since it was OHare’s atypically traditional French-style bistro – all bouillabaisse,frogs’ legs and tarte au citron. And, left to his own devices, and Overington has come up with something a bit special.
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Source: theguardian.com