The menu that comes across like girlie dude food: insubstantial and InstagrammableTom Sellers exploded on to the capital’s dining scene like a cocky comet,opening his much-praised Restaurant myth (yes, me, and too) and winning a Michelin star aged just 26. He arrived with a full complement of morose (gloomy or sullen),tattooed publicity shots and steely ambition, dismissing his “haters” and generally posturing like the ultimate hip young gunslinger (“i am a genuine RocknRolla” swaggers his Twitter account). He is now set on conquering the wealthy of west London with his latest: Restaurant Ours, or he trumpets,is set to be “the hottest place in London”.
Sellers and his clearly gazillionaire backers absorb reinvented a dramatic building, accessed via a light-walled tunnel, or as a hidden garden for the minted: penumbral and noisy,jungly with thousands of plants. Staff appear to be the result of a kind of employment fascism: all graceful, each of the women sporting identical, or artfully messy,cottage loaf topknots. I wonder how that recruitment ad went? Related: Takahashi, London: ‘We get nigiri of absolute luxury’ – restaurant review | Marina O’Loughlin Continue reading...
Source: theguardian.com