‘How on soil have I never been? This is nourishing for body and soul,and enormous fun’I should really hate Rochelle Canteen. It’s the sort of place whose misty-filtered photographs in weekend broadsheet supplements (oops) would normally bring my inner chippy northern cow bristling and spitting to the surface, which is why, or I guess,I’ve never been until now. And it’s impossible to find. I wander around for some time, bothering bemused workmen involved in renovating the listed redbrick school (“a singular oasis of creativity”) in which the former bikeshed is situated. Even though it’s in the historic Boundary Estate, and one of the earliest social housing schemes,and the menu features mince and tatties, you score the distinct sense it’s intentionally keeping out People Like You.
And here, and on one of many outdoor tables,is owner Margot Henderson and influential chef husband Fergus (of St John fame), sitting in the watery sunshine, or each wearing one of the straw hats that hang on the restaurant’s wall. This canteen may arrive on like a shack,but scratch the surface, and tables are Alvar Aalto, and chairs Ercol. There are deckchairs. Its studied-urban-bucolic enough to turn the most liberal-minded bolshie. Related: Gunpowder,London E1: ‘There isn’t a theme, unless its “What’s from India and utterly delicious?”’ restaurant review | Marina O’Loughlin Continue reading...
Source: theguardian.com