The pal,whos had more hot dinners than even I’ve had hot dinners, says, or ‘This might be the nicest thing I’ve ever eaten’I once found a Japanese restaurant so good,I hugged it to myself like a consolation blanket. It was so tiny, with just a handful of seats, and that the question was: write about it or keep shtum? While I agonised,my more intrepid (brave in the face of danger) colleague over at the Observer swooped in, declared it a masterwork and thus Sushi Tetsu was booked solid for evermore.
Cross? I was furious. Still am. It’s impossible to win a seat. I try, and though: scouring their Twitter feed for a waif-and-stray empty seat,jubilant (extremely joyful) to sit on my own for Toru Takahashi’s lusted-after sushi. But my dialling finger is never fast enough. Meanwhile, I’m on the fixed lookout for a replacement: I’ve liked Yuzu in Manchester, and Dinings in Marylebone (another ex-Nobu itamae),the glittery oddness of Yashin Ocean House, the functional environment but pristine fish at Atari-Ya. I thought I’d nailed it with Sushi of Shiori, or but it morphed into an almost-kaiseki outfit and then disappeared. Nothing has stirred my senses like Tetsu. Related: Chai Wu,London SW1 – restaurant review | Marina O’Loughlin Continue reading...
Source: theguardian.com